Meet the Healthy Handmade Tortilla With a Sonoran Flare from San Diego - Tortillas CoyotasBy Gabriela Mungarro
The quest to find the best tortilla de harina has long been the stuff of myths and legends. At times even folklore where tales of ventures to restaurants and puestos to taste a good tortilla de harina have both enticed and disappointed us. But why the obsession?
To put it in the simplest terms, eating a tortilla is a sacred experience. Not just for Sonorenses and the rest of Mexico, but for all Latinos. It's not just because of the taste or the quality (though those are crucial elements) but rather the memories and customs that are attached to tortillas that make it incredibly difficult to evolve or alter. It’s almost blasphemous-- a change to a cultural norm that is basically embedded in our DNA. For Janet Flores Pavlovich, 34, of Hermosillo, Sonora, tortillas de harina not only represent her heritage, but also her passion. As owner of Coyotas Tortillas, a small company that creates cassava flour based tortillas made by hand, her new venture would be her toughest obstacle to overcome, it would be her Mt. Everest placed on a comal. As a born and raised Sonorense, Pavlovich thought the idea of creating a Sonoran tortilla without the staple ingredient of flour would be immediately rejected with expected backlash. What would her fellow country people think? Who would even buy a Sonoran tortilla without the typical ingredients, she wondered? To her demise, there would be many! Hailing from the San Diego area (but technically, Hermosillo, Sonora) comes a new type of tortilla that looks like a tortilla de harina and tastes like a tortilla de harina, but alas, it is not a tortilla de harina. For people with diet restrictions or who eat on the healthier side, this tortilla is quite possibly salvation for those looking for a substitute.
Truthfully, the idea to make tortillas sparked when Palvovich began selling classic tortillas after moving from Hermosillo to San Diego-- where she studied culinary arts. Using her family’s recipe and her skills as a trained chef, Palvovich was finding much success in her new hustle.
Yet, life struck-- or rather, unforeseen health changes. How could her family’s old tortilla recipe (a typical Sonorense recipe) cause her stomach discomfort? She quickly realized that many people might be experiencing the same situation when they ate tortillas de harina. Embracing her new diet, Palvovich saw an opportunity to test her skills and create something completely different-- a cassava flour based tortilla. “Changing the stigma behind traditional tortillas, that's all I want to do-- to dignify the tortilla, any tortilla for that matter,” said Palvovich during a phone call. Placing a modern twist on traditional recipes, Palvovich has taken all the great qualities of a tortilla de harina and added a Californian flare, as Palvovich mentions, with a touch or two of healthy ingredients. But don’t get Palvovich wrong here, she’s not looking to reinvent the famed tortilla de harina, rather present a healthy alternative. Daring to challenge the status quo, Palvovich has opted to question our perceptions and tastes when it comes to tortillas de harina--one that at times can be filled with cruel judgement.
“I think Mexicans are just barely adapting to a special tortilla like mine. It’s different. Many told me, ‘those are not tortillas’ and then they tried them and ended up taking a pack home. It was a fight with Mexicans due to their criticism about my tortilla,” said Palvovich.
While the ingredients used might be considered new in the world of tortillas, the spirit behind Coyotas Tortillas is not-- down to the name. To gain the insight she needed for her new found business, Palvovich decided to go straight to the source-- Sonora. Although much of her knowledge came from her family, Palvovich returned to her beloved Hermosillo and spent an entire summer in the sweltering desert heat learning the true ins and outs of making tortillas de harina, from the proper amount of heat needed to the types of harinas used, Janet became an expert. For those who might not be too familiar with the word coyota, here’s a little lesson. No, coyota does not mean a female coyote. In Sonora, coyotas are actually a dessert that are very similar to a pop-tart, but round like a cookie, and are filled with a variety of flavors like guava and piloncillo-- but obviously, we’re not talking about dessert here. The word coyotas is said to have originated as a name given to the small children who were descendants of Sonoran natives and Spanish colonizers. The term caught on and then expanded into the popular aforementioned dessert. For Janet, a 100% Sonoran, the term holds special significance and evoked the very essence of her roots. She dubbed her new tortillas the unforgettable name-- coyotas. What you read on the packaging (or site) is exactly what you get with Coyotas Tortillas. There are no surprises, except for the taste! Each pack features 8 tortillas that are handmade in small batches by Palvovich, and are made of cassava flour, a peeled, dried and ground yucca root. Among some of the ingredients are water, organic coconut oil, and sea salt, to name a few. But as stated, Coyotas Tortillas are grain free, paleo, non-GMO, gluten-free, vegan, and dairy free--yet don’t compromise flavor. Granted, there is a noticeable difference, but in a great way. They’re soft, tasty and thicker when compared to most tortillas de harina. Palvovich designed her recipe and tortillas for optimum use-- these tortillas won’t tear under the pressure of a carne asada (or veggie) packed taco drowned in salsa.
“The most important thing for me was to create a clean label with few ingredients that are natural. Ingredients that we’re all able to digest well,” said Palvovich, and that’s exactly what she did.
Featuring minimal ingredients and maximum flavor, Coyotas Tortillas have conquered skeptics and even gained the seal of approval from her hometown of Hermosillo-- where she tested her tortillas and completely sold out. If Sonorenses loved them, it’s safe to say Palvovich’s tortillas were a hit when she launched in January at her local farmers’ market in San Diego earlier this year. “I started at the farmers’ markets. The good thing was that they were still open and while I was there I was able to test my own focus group and handout samples. People there are quick to tell you if they like your product or not. Since people don't know you, they don't mind telling you the truth or give their opinions, but I was having a very good acceptance,” said Palvovich. Selling her tortillas at the farmers’ market and online, Palvovich saw an incredible amount of support from patrons across the country from New York to Hawaii who were frequently ordering. Shortly after her debut, Palvovich was approached by grocery store chain Sprouts. Suffice it to say, she was in shock to see her product on the shelves of a popular store she admired. Not long after, her expectations would again be surpassed when California luxury supermarket Erewhon offered to sell her tortillas at all locations throughout Los Angeles.
Currently, Palvovich is expanding and testing her next product-- a take on tostadas with the same ingredients featured in her tortillas.
So for those on the quest for a good tortilla, let it end here. You’ll thank us later when you eat it in a carne asada taco, a machaca burrito, or pair with a steaming bowl of caldo-- as any proud Sonorense would. *Due to the ongoing pandemic, Coyotas Tortillas are no longer being sold at the San Diego farmers’ market and can only be purchased via their site or the locations listed below. Sprouts Eastlake, Chula Vista Jensen’s Foods, Point Loma Seaside Market, Cardiff Healthy Creations, Encinitas Nectarine Grove, Leucadia Paleo Treats, San Diego Erewhon, Santa Monica Erewhon, Calabasas Erewhon, Venice Erewhon, Pacific Palisades Erewhon, Beverly Hills Coyotas Tortillas www.eatcoyotas.com |
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